Finally: Frijoles Colorado Cuban Cafe

I once wrote about a small Cuban joint in Sunnyside and mused, among other things, on how I secretly hoped it was owned by a Cuban family with recipes passed down over generations. I also was hoping it was home to a worthy Cuban sandwich. In the end I was disappointed--not because it was owned by some non-Cubans--but because for the first time in my life I didn't care all that much for my Cuban sandwich.

Fast forward two-and-a-half years, a few dozen Cuban sandwiches later and enter Frijoles Colorado Cuban Cafe in far Western Lakewood. Frijoles Colorado is owned by the Negrin family-- a family of Cuban descent not-too-far-removed from their most recent home, Miami. I have heard nothing but good things about their food (starting with this great Westword review) and by opening their doors in Denver earlier this year they have filled a niche long-vacant in Denver: A casual, Cuban-owned Cuban Cafe making Cuban food from scratch.

As it has been a while since my last serious Cuban foray, let me keep my new readers up to date by reiterating my stance on this pork-filled sandwich: I love it. When done right there are few sandwiches that come close. I think I once referred to it as a "minor obsession", but I think that it has only slowly become "minor" over my eleven years in Denver out of necessity. I have reduced my Cuban intake dramatically since moving to Cuban-sparse Denver from the relatively more Cuban-dense Chicago, based on simple supply and demand. There is one Cuban I really like in town, and while I do go back with some regularity--and it stays consistently good--I need variety in order to keep any of my food-related obsessions going.

That brings me back to the Negrin family opening up a Cuban cafe in Colorado. Allow me to clarify my stance on this event: I couldn't be happier.

The Frijoles Colorado family sedan

The Denver On a Spit family finally happened upon Frijoles Colorado after spending a long morning in the nearby foothills outside of Genesee. Our babies were tired and it was a risky call dragging them out of their cozy car seats, but I did like any good dad would do, and I couldn't rightly let them miss out on their first Cuban meal. "Trust me," I told them as they were rubbing their eyes from fatigue, not understanding any words coming out of mouth, "You'll thank me for this later."

Frijoles is decidedly casual, with its counter service and informal dining room. It is also incredibly welcoming and refreshingly busy. The vibe is friendly and the Negrin family is endlessly bantering with its customers (many of whom seem to be regulars already), sharing their passion for the cuisine, and patiently--even enthusiastically--explaining any and everything on the menu to anyone who asks. And while the space is small, the menu is relatively extensive; offering an impressive variety of sandwiches and main plates along with a special or two. They also have a full assortment of fresh-made Cuban baked goods and desserts.

While a lot looked really good--especially the arroz con pollo special that seemed to be on every table that afternoon-- I was here to complete a mission and have myself a much-anticpated (and needed) Cuban sandwich.


Our food was out shortly and the short of it was that my Cuban was wonderful. The bread, which is baked in house was perfectly crisp, yet soft and dense on the inside. Layered between them was thick-sliced ham and a thin grilled pork loin. Melted Swiss, pickles and yellow mustard--all smashed together by the grill press--rounded off this rather impressive Frijoles Cuban.

As much as I loved my sandwich, my wife's pulled pork was even better. Shredded, slow-roasted pork between the same great bread. It was a pefect example of how the most simple foods--when done right-- are often the best.

Next up were empanadas and coffee. I love a strong shot of espresso (I even don't mind chewing on coffee sludge) but I am not one to ever put sugar in my coffee (or milk for that matter). Being full aware of this inevitability when I ordered my cafe at a Cuban restaurant, I was prepared to begrudingly sip my little cup--because I really needed a cup of coffee. Nothing magical happened. I didn't suddenly love sweet coffee. But I could see how if you like your coffee sweet this would probably stand out as a very good cup of coffee. I kinda liked it.

The empanada desserts, however, were another story. I love my dessert and especially anything in the pastry family. These sugary, but not-too-sweet, flaky pastries full of guava and cheese were absolutely delightful.

I would like to mention that my boys did not cry once while inside Frijoles--mostly thanks to the large TV (they don't really get to watch TV at home) they sat under showing a baseball game (this place really is Cuban)--but also thanks to the excellent moros-- black beans and rice-- and papas fritas that had them stuffing their chubby little cheeks the entire time. It turned out that father did know best for once in their 16-month existence. If I can keep that up until they leave my house that means I might be right about something 15 or 16 times over the next 20 years. I'd call that a success, but then again, I like to aim high.

The Negrin family has brought Denver exactly what it needs by dishing out Cuban comfort food--in a comfortable atmosphere-- with tremendous respect for the cuisine and care for its preparation. With daily specials like paella, picadillo, arroz con pollo, ropa vieja-- and standbys like lechón and the classic Cuban; Frijoles Colorado has quite literally blown the Cuban doors right off of Denver's Cuban dining scene. Or better, it has allowed us to begin to proudly say that there is a Cuban food scene worth talking about in our town.

The Red Claw of Denver, When You Don't Want to Go to Red Lobster

Recently it was my wife's birthday and she had been dropping subtle hints for months prior about how badly she wanted to go to Red Lobster to celebrate. She would say things like, "Did you see that Red Lobster ad? Didn't it look good?" Or driving past some godforsaken suburban mall she would comment: "Look, there's a Red Lobster. I bet they have good shellfish" She might have even said on more than one occasion: "Take me to Red Lobster for my birthday."

I'll give it to the Red Lobster for their TV ads, which capture the moment of squeezing lemon onto a steaming lobster tail in such up-close slow-motion really does make their food look appetizing; and they had my wife hooked like Homer Simpson to the Frying Dutchman. The problem being that those sailors that eventually dragged Homer out of the Dutchman (Season IV, Episode 8) would have to find me and drag me in to a Red Lobster.

'Tis no man. 'Tis a remorseless eatin' machine!

But I mostly jest. At times there is something wholly comforting in the uniform, predictable and familiar chain restaurant (though my wife hadn't grown up near a Red Lobster nor ever been in her life, so familiarity wasn't it). And although my blog features eateries very much on the opposite spectrum of Red Lobster, if that is where the love of my life really wanted to go, I would-- I really would-- take her there. 

And my poor wife from Mexico misses her seafood so --especially shellfish. But as smitten as she was by those entrancing drops of citrus floating slowly across the TV screen toward glowing red crustacean, in the end I decided that what she was really telling me was: "Take me to eat some fabulous shellfish in this dry, far-from-the-ocean town you dragged me to." I crossed my fingers and made a reservation for us and 12 of our close friends at Denver's own The Red Claw.

Normally for a husband to take a wife's very clear and literal words and try and interpret them otherwise in order to avoid something he definitely didn't want to do--on her birthday-- would be like getting her the proverbial bowling ball (once the Simpson's analogies start, I can't stop). I admit, it was a bold move. But I had to. Friends--not to mention spouses--don't let each other eat at Red Lobster if they want really good seafood and have never been to Red Lobster so aren't going for the nostalgic factor. Especially when places like Red Claw are around.

The Red Claw is very much on the opposite speccturm of mass-produced and commonplace. If Red Lobster is Kenny G being played in a hotel elevator, then The Red Claw is the Gorilla Biscuits playing at CBGBs in the 80s. A mix of the spicy hot Vietnamese and Cajun-style cuisines, The Red Claw is a unique concept that I have been meaning to try for some time.

The idea of mixing Vietnamese and Cajun cuisines makes sense and it isn't a new one. With enough Vietnamese putting down their roots in our country's South, it was only a matter of time before they started cooking the food from that region. The propieter of The Red Claw is a first-generation Vietnamese man from Arkansas who learned to cook Cajun in New Orleans. He moved to Denver not long ago and with him brought this new tradition.

We kept it pretty simple being our first time there and started with some grilled mussels. This typical Vietnamese dish was a little dry but flavored nicely with things like spring onions and lemongrass. It had a subtle flavor that allowed the mussel flavor to stand out.

Next up was a plate of Vietnamese spring rolls. In addition to typical meats like chicken, shrimp and beef was a delectable and respectable serving of deep-fried softshell crab.

These do-it-yourself rolls were good with that lovely crab, though were missing the fish-sauce dipping bowl that I am used to from the neighboring restaurants like New Saigon and Saigon Bowl. Still, once I rolled up that rice paper around mint, lettuce, carrots, cucumber, rice noodles and blue crab it didn't matter so much--but it would have made these good rolls great. And if I learned anything in college, it was how to roll a fat, tight--but not too tight-- er, spring roll. 

There wasn't lobster on the extensive Red Claw menu that I remember, but there were other, lovely clawed, only minutes-before-alive animals to crush and then eat. The next of those we tried were freshly steamed blue crab.

I believe we got ours with the house cajun blend. We eventually tried four or five of the six flavor options and they were all good. What really mattered was that this crab was amazing, and amazingly well-priced at $2.95 per crab.

At this point, I will say, my wife was beaming with happiness as she sucked succulent flesh from claw, and gutted her poor, delicious crab until it was nothing more than a shell. We were all feeling quite gluttonous, what with our plastic lobster bibs and feast of meal. And I, for some reason sitting at the head of the table, felt like a king, especially given that the nights main course was set down very literally at my feet: two large buckets of freshly boiled crawfish.

The crawfish were the highlight of the night. The crawfish tail is remarkably flavorful; and there is nothing quite like sucking out whatever encephalonilike miscellany comes out of the head. In a word they were amazing, and their limp shells piled up with amazing quickness on my plate.

By the end of the meal I was dripping in sweat. Not only because the sickly AC unit in one far-away corner did little to cool this west-facing building on another 100-degree afternoon; and not just because of the fire-hot cajun blend--no, I was still waiting to hear my wife's words of approval for bringing her to the Red Claw instead of the much plainer Red Lobster.

And of course I did get it (or I wouldn't be writing this today). And in the end she really just wanted to crack claws and suck flesh from shells. And she did, much more deliciously than she could have at Red Lobster. The Red Claw proved to be excellent in every way--from the friendly, helpful servers to the fabulous food. We will be back again and again to work our way through their extensive menu--especially the interesting and inviting "Drinking Food" section.


The proverbial melting pot of the great United States does not always turn out well, but The Red Claw and its broader concept reinforces the idea that two far away cultures can come together very easily and work together very well. And just like that a new tradition is born. Authenticity is re-defined. I love this country. Happy belated Independence Day. Hope you celebrate with something as uniquely American as The Red Claw.

Torta Grill On Not-Too-East Colfax

There are plenty of great tortas to be had around Denver. On the East and West sides of town there is Las Tortugas, the first Mexico City-style torta shop around and now a true Denver institution. There is Teleras up north in Thorton, a Tortugas replica with a few original twists that is worthy in its own right. And just outside of Cherry Creek on lovely Leetsdale is the amazing Guadalajara-style Las Tortas, home to a fine torta ahogada. There was even for a time Leobardo's, who would make the most Mexico City of Mexico City sandwiches, the torta de tamal. Yes, tortas--really good tortas--abound compared to other Mexican dishes in Denver, but like so many other good, inexpensive Mexican fare, one usually has to travel well outside Central Denver to partake.

I never mind driving for good food. Between my wife and I--from Mexico City and Chicago respectively, there is seldom traffic in Denver that we can rightly call traffic (very much part of the reason we love it here), so in one day it would not be rare to find us lunching on North Federal then dining down in Southeast Aurora. That being said, if I don't have to spend time in a car I'd rather not, so when I heard that Torta Grill opened up just 18 short blocks from our state's capitol on Colfax and Williams, I headed over as soon as I could.

As much as I have learned to like the Denver strip mall (for its seemingly limitless number of cheap, culturally diverse eats) I love that Torta Grill is on the curb-- and what's more, on the curb of Colfax next to a liquor store and just a few steps down from the lovely Squire Lounge. It is on the corner with the alley between Williams and High that you will find Torta Grill in a small space sporting five stools inside, and a four-seat plastic table out on the sidewalk. It has little sliding windows that open from the register to the street as well, so that food and cash can be exchanged right from the pavement.

While many tortas in Mexico City are made on carts, the more permanent vendors might operate from a shop not unlike Torta Grill. And without a doubt tortas are best enjoyed sitting on plastic chairs or standing on a busy street with throngs of people walking by. In this sense Torta Grill has chosen the perfect location.

Yes, it seems like a well-conceived plan by the husband and wife team who have opened Torta Grill. The former, Steve, or as he calls himself, "El Guero Tortero", can be found working the line; proudly flipping your torta meats. His wife, Ardeni, a Mexico City native, was also there that day to ring up our order then pass it out the window with a big smile. 

My wife ordered the Jose, which in addition to all the torta basics (avocado, mayo, beans, onion, tomato, etc.) came layered with ham, chorizo, eggs and cheese.

That's a  fine-looking torta

It was an excellent torta made with fresh ingredients all around. Even the beans--smeared across the bottom loaf of bread--stood out. They were creamy and flavorful; and when a seemingly background ingredient stands out, it makes me think that much care and thought has gone into the preparation of not only the sandwich, but the entire restaurant. I could be wrong (I often am), but by the taste of those beans it also seems like the Guero Tortero is not afraid to make use of the lard. Well done.

Inside La Jose

The Arturo is what I ordered: pork, ham, eggs and cheese. It was exactly as delicious as it looks in the photo below, and note those beautiful black beans peeping out on the bottom layer. In my carefree bachelor days that found me more than once at the Squire Lounge just down the street, oh how I wish this sandwich was there as I stumbled home. 

Of course what would a torta shop be without aguas frescas? The question is mostly rhetorical, but for those not familiar with a typical torta-shop set-up, the answer is that it would be hard to even consider that a torteria in a place like Mexico City. The fact is that greasy tortas and fresh-made fruit and vegetable drinks are the yin and yang of Mexico City street food. There are very few things that are likely as unhealthy as bread slathered in butter stuffed with several kinds of greasy, grilled meats, cheese, mayo and all the other sorts of calorie-laden, cholesterol-raising fillings. Therefore it makes sense that a healthy, freshly made jugo like the one I had at Torta Grill-- made with strawberries, apple, pineapple, orange and lemon--are the perfect companion to the torta.

Sipping a giant freshly made jugo after downing a torta is like waking up early to go to the gym after eating a big meal the night before-- but without the waking up early or going to the gym. What could be better than that?

Where does Las Tortas stand among the torta greats of Denver? It is early still, but I was most definitely impressed with what I had, and unless something changes (I'll let you know if it does), it will be on the top of my torta rotation from here on out. Do yourself a favor and get there.

The Torta Grill is calling your name. You can call them at 720.420.0964 for delivery or just go pay a visit at 1818 E. Colfax. 

Happy Father's Day

Normally on a Sunday afternoon or night I spend a few hours writing and publishing my food-related rants. I hope that come Monday morning it at least gives my readers one more distraction to help ease them into the work week. Today, however, is Father's Day, and after spending a busy day with the family I am instead going to enjoy my thoughtful Father's Day gifts.

Yes, I am headed to the porch to sip on some lovely Stranahan's and turn the pages of what promises to be a great book: "The Art of Fielding", by Chad Harbach. Happy Father's day to all the dads out there and I hope you get some time today equivalent of my whiskey-and-reading time to yourselves today.

On a food-blog related note, I realize that it has been a slow, unproductive June, but I just ate some Cuban food in Lakewood and some amazing Mexican food on--where else--Colfax. So stay tuned, I'll be back next by next Sunday at the latest with more food talk.

Ian Kleinman at Studio F Part II: Divine Deconstructed Desserts

In my last post I explained the details of how and why someone like me ended up at Studio F eating plate after plate of spectacular food made by Colorado's own cooking chemist, Ian Kleinman. In fact I ranted and raved so much that I decided to break it up into two posts, because though I realize my average reader's attention span and literacy level is likely much better than mine, I didn't want these desserts to get lost at the bottom of what turned out to be a very long post about a very good meal.

To summarize, Studio F (for Fun) is the new concept in the old Mise en Place cooking school. Studio F is all about entertainment through cooking (and eating) and one of its goals is to play host to guest chefs who create unique menus and cook their fare in front of the guests--even on big screen TVs. Chef Kleinman of The Inventing Room was recently there for about 10 days doing his thing with his full lab set of cooking tools, including his ubiquitous Nitrogen tank.

After a stunning meal, the first dessert we delved into that night was an apple pie, artfully deconstructed and wonderfully presented in true Kleinman style. On one side there was a small edible cup of a silky smooth vanilla ice cream, delicious and perfect like all of Kleinman's frozen treats. Smeared across the middle of the plate was a tart green apple, in the form of a warm gel. To use the Chef's description, "Crème fraîche streusel", was dotted over the gel, which made for a rich, creamy and crunchy transition (in both flavor and temperature) to the main attraction on the plate: That which most closely resembled an actual slice of pie.

Thinly sliced, slow-cooked apples (cooked for 20 hours) sandwiched between buttery, light wafers. Each bite was decadent on its own and heavenly with a smear of gel or a spoonful of ice cream.

The apple pie was my favorite of the two desserts for its classic flavor and playful presentation. My wife preferred the carrot cake, a much freer interpretation than the apple pie in flavor. The plate highlighted just how creative Chef Kleinman can be. It was a classic slice of carrot cake--moist and well-executed--but the icing was heavy with vanilla and on top was a creamy dollop of more Kleinman ice cream. Off to the side were crunchy bits of orange-flavored cream cheese, sticky caramel and lovely sweet chunks of almonds and honey.

Chef Kleinman put together a hell of a meal that night and I enjoyed seeing him cooking and creating up close once again. He looks like a man doing exactly what he wants to be doing and I admire how he interacts with his guests, showing a genuine interest in sharing his passion for his naturally interactive cooking techniques. His run at Studio F is over for now, but look out for him and do what you can to eat with him in the future.

Mazzio, proprietor of the forward-thinking Studio F, has brought to Denver a fun concept in an incredible space that I hope is here to stay. When he is not hosting evening meals or private events, he keeps it real all week long with Red Star Deli up front. It is open during the weekdays for breakfast and lunch and the menu looks attractive. With Mazzio's culinary chops behind the menu, needless to say it is on my short list of new places to check out.