Torta Grill On Not-Too-East Colfax

There are plenty of great tortas to be had around Denver. On the East and West sides of town there is Las Tortugas, the first Mexico City-style torta shop around and now a true Denver institution. There is Teleras up north in Thorton, a Tortugas replica with a few original twists that is worthy in its own right. And just outside of Cherry Creek on lovely Leetsdale is the amazing Guadalajara-style Las Tortas, home to a fine torta ahogada. There was even for a time Leobardo's, who would make the most Mexico City of Mexico City sandwiches, the torta de tamal. Yes, tortas--really good tortas--abound compared to other Mexican dishes in Denver, but like so many other good, inexpensive Mexican fare, one usually has to travel well outside Central Denver to partake.

I never mind driving for good food. Between my wife and I--from Mexico City and Chicago respectively, there is seldom traffic in Denver that we can rightly call traffic (very much part of the reason we love it here), so in one day it would not be rare to find us lunching on North Federal then dining down in Southeast Aurora. That being said, if I don't have to spend time in a car I'd rather not, so when I heard that Torta Grill opened up just 18 short blocks from our state's capitol on Colfax and Williams, I headed over as soon as I could.

As much as I have learned to like the Denver strip mall (for its seemingly limitless number of cheap, culturally diverse eats) I love that Torta Grill is on the curb-- and what's more, on the curb of Colfax next to a liquor store and just a few steps down from the lovely Squire Lounge. It is on the corner with the alley between Williams and High that you will find Torta Grill in a small space sporting five stools inside, and a four-seat plastic table out on the sidewalk. It has little sliding windows that open from the register to the street as well, so that food and cash can be exchanged right from the pavement.

While many tortas in Mexico City are made on carts, the more permanent vendors might operate from a shop not unlike Torta Grill. And without a doubt tortas are best enjoyed sitting on plastic chairs or standing on a busy street with throngs of people walking by. In this sense Torta Grill has chosen the perfect location.

Yes, it seems like a well-conceived plan by the husband and wife team who have opened Torta Grill. The former, Steve, or as he calls himself, "El Guero Tortero", can be found working the line; proudly flipping your torta meats. His wife, Ardeni, a Mexico City native, was also there that day to ring up our order then pass it out the window with a big smile. 

My wife ordered the Jose, which in addition to all the torta basics (avocado, mayo, beans, onion, tomato, etc.) came layered with ham, chorizo, eggs and cheese.

That's a  fine-looking torta

It was an excellent torta made with fresh ingredients all around. Even the beans--smeared across the bottom loaf of bread--stood out. They were creamy and flavorful; and when a seemingly background ingredient stands out, it makes me think that much care and thought has gone into the preparation of not only the sandwich, but the entire restaurant. I could be wrong (I often am), but by the taste of those beans it also seems like the Guero Tortero is not afraid to make use of the lard. Well done.

Inside La Jose

The Arturo is what I ordered: pork, ham, eggs and cheese. It was exactly as delicious as it looks in the photo below, and note those beautiful black beans peeping out on the bottom layer. In my carefree bachelor days that found me more than once at the Squire Lounge just down the street, oh how I wish this sandwich was there as I stumbled home. 

Of course what would a torta shop be without aguas frescas? The question is mostly rhetorical, but for those not familiar with a typical torta-shop set-up, the answer is that it would be hard to even consider that a torteria in a place like Mexico City. The fact is that greasy tortas and fresh-made fruit and vegetable drinks are the yin and yang of Mexico City street food. There are very few things that are likely as unhealthy as bread slathered in butter stuffed with several kinds of greasy, grilled meats, cheese, mayo and all the other sorts of calorie-laden, cholesterol-raising fillings. Therefore it makes sense that a healthy, freshly made jugo like the one I had at Torta Grill-- made with strawberries, apple, pineapple, orange and lemon--are the perfect companion to the torta.

Sipping a giant freshly made jugo after downing a torta is like waking up early to go to the gym after eating a big meal the night before-- but without the waking up early or going to the gym. What could be better than that?

Where does Las Tortas stand among the torta greats of Denver? It is early still, but I was most definitely impressed with what I had, and unless something changes (I'll let you know if it does), it will be on the top of my torta rotation from here on out. Do yourself a favor and get there.

The Torta Grill is calling your name. You can call them at 720.420.0964 for delivery or just go pay a visit at 1818 E. Colfax. 

Aguas Frescas at Las Tortugas

I don't know much about much, but every once in a while I feel the need to clarify something. This time it has to do with a somewhat recent post in the Westword's Cafe Society regarding El Taco Veloz and its aguas frescas. Now, El Taco Veloz is of course famous in my little private world for having the best and most authentic tacos al pastor that I have tried thus far in Denver. This, as you may already know, is very important to me. When I saw Taco Veloz listed on the Westword 100 Favorite Dishes, I assumed that they were finally getting their propers for just that. The post starts out lauding the pastor, and so it was with a great amount of surprise to learn that it was being praised for its aguas frescas. (Yesterday I was pleased to see Taco Veloz voted best taco by the Westword, so all is right with the world again.)

It's all about the taco al pastor at Taco Veloz

Say what? I mean, the aguas frescas are good, and yes, they have some harder to find flavors. It is not, however, a place I would consider going out of my way to get an agua fresca. It's not just that the Westword thinks that the aguas frescas are good, which they are, but it is the fact that they write that this is what sets Taco Veloz apart from the other taco joints.

This is undebatably wrong on two levels. First, what sets Taco Veloz apart are its tacos al pastor. Second, if you drive South on Federal, take a left on Alameda and find your way down to Las Tortugas, you find aguas frescas that are indeed worth going out of your way to get.

I won't say that Las Tortugas are necessarily the best, though I have yet to see another place in Denver that makes them to order and serves them this fresh. Just like they are true to their Mexico City roots in their torta-making, so are their aguas frescas. In Mexico, there are any number of fruit stands that will blend up to order any combination of fruit and/or vegetable with water and sugar. Las Tortugas does just that, and they do it well.

My favorite at Las Tortugas is the Crazy Agua, which is a blend of fresh strawberries, fresh-squeezed orange juice and fresh pineapple chunks made while you wait (and you will wait when eating here). It is also where I can go to get my cucumber-juice fix, which I like with a little lime. This is absolutely one of the most refreshing drinks I have ever had.

The possibilities are endless. Beets, for example, are great with any number of fruits or vegetables. Beet, apple, orange and carrot together are delicious. So is pure melon juice, or pure strawberry, as is mentioned in the Westword post. At Taco Veloz you have to cross your fingers for that one to be on tap, at Las Tortugas, it is there whenever you want it, and made to order as well.

Now I don't mean to disrespect Taco Veloz at all. It is my taco haven. Without it, there would be a large void in my taco-loving organs. And their aguas frescas are very good, going above and beyond many taco joints that only have the pre-mixed horchata, agua de tamarindo and jamaica (hibiscus). The last time I was there, I had a great agua de melon which was full of little bits of cantaloupe and honeydew. And also no disrespect to the Westword, who has the difficult job of reporting on everything food (without a food critic), and trying to pick out the gems. OK, I'm done. Go to Las Tortugas for some of the best aguas frescas you will have and certainly for the best torta.

Las Tortugas can be enjoyed in Aurora, 712 Peoria St. or in Denver, 1549 W Alameda --now with a sign!